Construction guide
Concrete piers and anchor bolts
A cast-in-place pier is the same basic build whether it carries a low deck, a raised deck, a pergola or a pavilion post: dig below the frost line, form it, pour it, and set the anchors before the concrete sets.
Updated October 2026
Structural work — verify locally
Pier depth, diameter, rebar, anchor type and permit thresholds come from your local building code and the connector manufacturer. These steps describe the common method; they do not replace a stamped plan or a qualified professional.
1. Size and locate the pier
- Confirm the pier centers, spacing and diameter on the plan. Deck piers are commonly 10–12 in in diameter and sized by the load and soil.
- The bottom of every pier must sit below the local frost line. In cold climates that can be 36–48 in; use your local number, not a rule of thumb.
- Call 811 before digging. Keep piers clear of the house footing, drainage, utilities and major roots.
- For a low platform, keep the pier top at or just above grade. For a raised structure, set it at the height the beam or post base needs.
2. Dig and form
- Dig a straight hole to the required depth. Keep it clean, dry and free of loose soil; a slightly widened base helps uplift resistance.
- Add 4–6 in of compacted clean gravel at the bottom of the hole.
- Set a cardboard or wooden form plumb and brace it on two axes; extend it 1–2 in above grade for a low platform.
- If the plan calls for rebar, tie the cage with about 3 in of cover. Do not add rebar without the plan.
- Recheck spacing, depth and top height before any concrete goes in.
3. Mix and pour
- Use a structural concrete mix — often 4000 psi; follow the bag or ready-mix ticket.
- Mix to a workable, not soupy, consistency. Extra water lowers strength.
- Pour in 6–12 in lifts and consolidate each lift with a rod or vibrator, working around the form and anchor locations.
- Fill to the top, tap the form to release trapped air, and avoid cold joints by pouring continuously.
4. Set the anchors and post base
- Use the anchor or post base the connector manufacturer specifies. Do not substitute rebar or unrated threaded rod.
- Make a template board with the post-base hole pattern and bolt the base or anchors through it.
- Lower the anchors into the wet concrete to the specified embedment. Keep the template supported, level and correctly oriented.
- Check spacing, diagonal, plumb, edge distance and embedment before the concrete sets.
- Protect the threads and do not bend the anchors after the concrete sets.
- If drilling after cure: use the specified wedge or epoxy anchor, clean the hole, and torque to the manufacturer's value.
- A post base holds a vertical post. When a beam sits directly on a pier, use a beam saddle with a flat base plate and side straps — never seat a horizontal beam in a post collar.
5. Crown, cure and load
- Trowel the pier top with a slight slope away from the post base so water runs off.
- Keep the concrete damp and covered for 24–48 hours; protect it from freezing and hot sun.
- Remove forms carefully after the initial set; do not disturb the anchors.
- Do not load the pier for about 7 days. Full design strength is at about 28 days.
6. Inspect before you build
- Every pier below the frost line; diameter and spacing match the plan.
- Pier tops level and at the required height; no honeycomb, voids or exposed rebar.
- Anchors plumb, correctly spaced, at the required embedment and edge distance; threads clean.
- Post base level, standoff gap intact and drain hole clear.
- Gravel sits in the hole under the concrete; permeable fabric goes around the pier after cure — never under the concrete, never plastic sheeting.
- Schedule the local inspection if the permit requires one.
Sources
- International Code Council — International Residential Code (IRC) — Model code for guards, stairs and footings; your local amendments govern.
- Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association (formerly ICPI) — paver installation guidance — Industry guidance for paver base, bedding and edge restraint.
Always follow the local building department and the connector manufacturer; the steps above are the common method, not a site-specific design.
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